Basics of Faux Marble

This chapter will cover the basics of faux marble painting. I will cover the basic paint estimation formulas, materials, tools, step-by-step instructions, and tips to help improve skills.

The first step to any paint project is to know your subject; in this case marble. It is usually best to find a piece or photograph of the type of marble that you would like to emulate. The study of the type of marble will give you the colors and/or color combinations you will need to mix.

The second step is to determine the amount of material you will need. Some people use the "guestimation" method, which usually ends in not having enough material or too much: this can be costly and time consuming. The basic formula for paint material estimating is as follows: take the square foot total of paintable surface, divided by 200 square feet (200 sq. ft. is the usual coverage you will get out of one gallon of paint, this will vary upon technique such as washes, glazes, and detailing, which will be covered later). After you have formulated the number of gallons, add thirty percent to account for waste. This formula is generally for one color, one coat general painting, such as priming or base coats. You will need to determine per coat estimation. Example: 1000sq.ft. of paintable surface, divided by 200 sq. ft. = 5 + 30% = 5.3 rounding up to the nearest gallon would give you 6 (six gallons.) Thus, six would be the number of gallons needed to cover the paintable surface once. This will give you a little extra paint, but that is okay. It is a good practice to have a little extra for a touch-up kit. This formula has worked for me and has been almost exact every time.

Now, let us cover an example of basic faux marble technique, and at the same time give a working example of estimating material. This will give you a basic knowledge of faux marble technique step-by-step and a working example of things to consider when estimating cost. I always try to consider all the steps I need to execute while estimating before actually performing the work. This also helps prevent shortages or overages in material and man-hours.

The first thing to consider is surface preparation. The usual goal for marble is a smooth surface. Generally, the best surface material to use is luan sheeting and 1"x 3" framing glued and stapled flats. Hopefully your carpenter is nice to you and uses one side sanded and does not overkill with the staples and glue. You will need to consider if the flats will be moved a lot. This will determine if you need a durable material to fill holes and seams. Spackle is a plaster-like substance that can be used right out of the bucket and spread on the surface, using a Spackle knife, where holes and seams appear, and then can be sanded smooth. Automotive filler, such as Bondo, is a two-part product, one part being the filler and the second part being the catalyst (it is always best to follow the product manufacturer's instructions). Do not apply automotive filler too thickly, or you will spend a lot of time sanding the surface smooth.

When you have inside corners, painter's latex caulk is best. Cut a reasonable-size hole at the end of the applicator, squeeze the caulk evenly as you pull down, and follow the seam. Use a damp rag over your finger and follow the seam to wipe the excess caulk away, smoothing it as you go.

Now, you can go to the next step. Using the estimated materials example, for a 1000 sq. ft. surface, you would need approximately one-half gallon of Spackle (referred to as ready mix) or one gallon of automotive filler. Depending upon how rough your surface is, you may need to add to that amount. You will also need one case of latex painters caulk. This depends on how many corners you have, but this stuff is always good to have on hand. You will need 80 grit and 120-grit sandpaper. Buying these by the ream is always more cost efficient. One 10-pound box of rags is also handy (you will be using the rags more in the marble veining process). You will also need some containers. One-gallon work buckets are great. These will also be used again in the marble process. Check around for local prices because they can vary greatly.

Now comes the first step of actual painting: priming. This is the transition between preparation and the final paint treatment (faux marble). Before priming, clean the area, freeing it of dust and other debris. Mask areas that are not to be painted with materials such as drop cloths or plastic. Priming the surface with a good primer helps fill any small imperfections and seals the surface. This helps the finish coats from being absorbed by the underlying material, which would cause you to apply additional, finish coats. Priming will also point out any major imperfections in the paintable surface so they can be fixed before final treatment is applied. Always make sure to mix the primer well before applying and be sure to follow manufacturer's directions. Primer can be applied using a brush or roller. If you choose to use a brush, a good tip is to use a wire brush to comb your paintbrush. As you clean it, set the brush on the edge of a bucket or a sink, and comb the brush from were the bristles meet the hilt to the tips, smoothly and firmly, and then shake out the brush or use a brush spinner. Spraying is another option for applying the primer. Whenever possible, I prefer to spray using conventional air guns (air compressor) or airless sprayers (airless sprayers save some time because refilling time is cut down), because they cut down on man-hours.

The previous formula applies to estimating the amount of paint primer needed. You can also have the primer tinted to your base color. This will help when you apply the finish coat and will create an effect known as show-through (one color showing through the next). Once you have applied the primer, allow it to fully dry and cure. Check for imperfections and fix them as needed. If you are satisfied with the surface, you can move on to the next step.

The finish coat, or in this case the base coat, is applied in the same manner. Make sure the paint is well mixed before applying and be sure follow the manufacturer's directions. In this step you will have a choice to use oil-based paint (if using oil-based paint, Japan oils are best. I use Mann Bros. or ICI Deluxe) or water-borne paint. Water borne paints that I prefer are Sinclair stucco and ICI Deluxe. These are commonly referred to as artistic colors. These are used a great deal in the entertainment industry for sets, theme parks, etc. I use them whenever possible as they have excellent color and durability. This is also the step during which you will decide upon your base color. I usually use white. White paint allows the transparency of the veining colors to vary in intensity and shade. Once the base coat has dried and cured, you can clean up and move to the next step. Again, the same formula applies to the base coat in calculating the amount of materials needed.

The next step is the time consuming, creative veining process. Now you will apply the veining colors and pattern. You will use brushes, sea sponges, rags, and a bucket of thinning agent. Your brush size will depend upon the size of your project. I use 3" or 4" brushes because I usually work on larger pieces, but smaller brushes come in handy for detailing. Choosing the right sea sponge is important. I like sea sponges with pointier rough textures because they tend to leave small dots. Choosing a rag with little or no texture is best. Either water or paint thinner will be the thinning agent, depending on the type of paint you have chosen.

First, apply a thin layer of thinning agent to the wall to moisten the working area. Do not over moisten the surface or moisten an area too large. Then dip your brush in to the paint and wipe the brush on the edge of the paint can to remove excess paint. Swipe the wall, allowing the brush to travel in one direction. Marble veining usually flows in one direction so the veining for that area should all follow the same direction. If you are simulating tile or slabs, then you will need to mask off the area where the tile or slab ends so that you get a clean edge. Later, when that dries, you can re-mask for the adjoining slab or tile. Now that you have the vein traveling in the direction you have chosen, take your rag and pat the area, softening the vein. This will create variation in color, darkness, as well as depth and texture. Depth and texture are important. Most marbles are not opaque or two-dimensional; there is a great amount of transparency, causing depth. Other elements in marble make up the colors and this creates the texture. When softening the veins, you are creating the basis of this effect. Once you have the veining laid out and softened, you can come back to detailing and to add more texture as desired with the sea sponge. Touch the dampened sea sponge to the paint; wipe off excess paint as needed and then dab the veined surface. This will create speckled blotches. Then, using an artistic brush, drag the brush in the same direction as the veining to create smaller veins. I use a 1" inch brush for this step. Some artists use a turkey feather to emulate the marbles that have finer veining. Sometimes, using two colors on the same brush can create a spectacular effect.

For cracks, use a small barrel brush and drag it across the painting to make small cracks. Once this is to your liking, allow it to dry and cure. In this step, the material formula does not apply. Because of thinning of the material, you will use far less. You will use about one gallon for the 1000 sq. ft. This will vary, depending upon how much you thin the paint, so you would rely on a paint-to-thinning ratio. Example: one quart of paint to three quarts of water creates the desired effect, then you can figure one gallon of mix to 200 sq. ft. Then you get 800sq.ft. from a gallon of paint. This is just an example to illustrate the difference in formulae. In reality you most likely would get more square footage from your materials.

Once the area is complete and dry and cured, clear coat can be applied. I use Ronan Aquathane Clear Gloss with U.V. or Mann Bros. Dryhard Acrylic Gloss. Gloss sheen is usually desired with marble.

Allow this coat to dry, then if you would like to add more depth repeat the marble veining step again and repeat clear coat. In this step, the material estimating rule applies.

When estimating do not forget your labor cost. Labor can be figured in the time you estimate it will take you to finish the job or you can do an overall square footage price for labor and materials.

Basics of Faux Marble for Floors

Creating faux marble for floors is much like faux marble for walls with a few differences. We will cover step-by step basics of this technique. In the basics of faux marble we covered the basic estimating formula for materials, which will also apply to this and all paint projects.

First, you will need to know your subject, the type of marble. The colors and textures are the important characteristics on which to focus. Once you have determined the colors and the amount of material and type of material you will need, then you can begin preparing the surface. For this type of project I would suggest oil based Japan paints for veining and polyurethane for the clear coat (this method uses more toxic materials, but it is very durable). That being said, you will need a few things before you start.

Chemical resistant gloves (change them as often as needed)
Surgical foot covers (to help prevent footprints)
Respirator mask (not a paper dust mask)
Dust masks (for sanding)

Taking these precautions adds expense and time, but will help protect you. Please do not disregard the importance of your personal safety.

The actual work always begins with surface preparation (it is considered to be the most important part of any paint project). With the floor, if you have plywood laid down (as with most sets), you will need to sheet the floor with Masonite. This will give you a smooth surface to work with. Once you have done this, fill the nail holes and seams with automotive filler. Follow the manufacturer's directions. Do not apply too thickly or you will spend a lot of time sanding it smooth. A belt sander with light grit sandpaper (120-grit) is good to use. When you are finished, clean the area of dust and debris.

Now you can prime the floor. When priming the floor you can use the brush and roll method or spray the primer (I prefer to spray whenever possible). You may also, at this point, consider tinting your primer depending upon the color of marble you will be creating. White, however, is usually good, as it helps show variation in tone and depth. Kilz is a good primer to use here because it does a great job of sealing and covering without many applications. Check with your paint dealer, as there are other equally good primers available. Once you have applied the primer and it has dried and cured, clean up and you can move on to the next step.

Your next step is to apply the base coat. This can be done in the same manner as the primer coat. It is important not to leave footprints. I wear surgical shoe covers so that my shoes do not leave marks. Sometimes working in your socks is simpler, but not for the next step, as you will soon see. Once the Base coat has dried and cured (according to the manufacturer's directions), clean up and continue to the next step.

Now you can apply your marble pattern. Fill three Hudson pumps (bug sprayers): one with Mineral sprits, one with Alco (Denatured alcohol), and one with Benzene. Wet the floor with Mineral sprits, making a puddle. Then take a 4" brush affixed to a roller pole (you will need one for each color), dip it into the paint and swipe it across the floor creating a vein. The paint will spread out naturally. Next, work the vein with the brush spreading it out as desired. Now use the Alco, lightly spritzing it in areas (the reaction will thin the paint more in those areas than in the areas with only mineral sprits). Now adjust the sprayer with the benzene so that the spray comes out in heavier droplets and spritz the floor lightly in areas. You will see that where the droplets land in the vein it will create little circles where the paint will become displaced. This technique is known as "floating a floor." Work your way back across the floor (not trapping yourself in a corner). Once you have completed the floor and have allowed it to dry and cure, clean up and you will be ready for the next step.

Finally, it is time to apply the clear coat. The clear coat in this instance will be polyurethane. You can either brush and roll or spray the polyurethane onto the floor. Apply a good, even coat to the floor. It is very important not to leave footprints in this step. Once you have applied a nice even coat, allow it to dry and cure according the manufacturer's specifications, and then clean up. You will need to allow about four days for the polyurethane to fully dry and cure. Then you should apply a second coat for durability, especially for floors that will see high traffic. Allow about four more days to dry and cure.

Basics of Faux Marble Aging

In this section we will cover some tips on faux marble aging. Many people do not think of marble and aging in the same sentence. This is because marble is thought of as polished and long-lasting by most people. By studying the world in a conscious and unconscious manner for colors and textures, the faux finisher, the set painter, the scenic artist, will realize that marble, as does any other material, ages. I am sure at one time or another you must have noticed that marble loses it sheen and becomes dirty as it ages. This process occurs for most things in the world. But let us concentrate on marble. At this point, you are probably already thinking about how to age marble. This is good. We have already gone through the process of creating faux marble, so now let us back track a little.

We will start at the last step of faux marble, before the clear coat is applied. In this step we used gloss clear coat, because that is the finish that marble usually has. Now we are going to introduce Frosting Lacquer. A good source is Mann Bros. Paints. Frosting lacquer will give you a semi-transparent white, frosted look. If, when applying, you spray the frosting lacquer with a lower material volume and higher air volume while backing off from the surface slightly farther then usual, you will create "graduals," which will give the surface a granular frosted texture. This will make the surface of the marble look as if it has eroded. I have observed that most marble does not erode evenly and sometime it erodes in sections. So, I will give you two suggestions. One is to mask jagged lines in sections of your marble. This can be done by tearing the edge of your masking tape to create a jagged edge and then by spraying it with the frosting lacquer. Then, remove that mask, mirror mask the area, and spray the remaining marble with clear gloss. The other suggestion is not to mask at all and to freehand the frosting lacquer and the gloss.

Once you have this done and it has thoroughly dried and cured, you can add your dirt (aging). Start by mixing a quart of raw umber paint with 3 quarts of clear flat. Adjust your mix ratio to the area you will be painting, larger or smaller as needed (this mixture is known as a glaze). Other aging colors such as burnt umber, raw sienna, burnt sienna, black , and white can be used and combined to your liking. Once you have achieved the color or colors you desire, pour them into one Hudson pump (bug sprayer) and then fill another with water. Moisten the wall by misting it with the water. Then, mist the glaze onto the wall. This technique is known as a wash. A wash is usually thinned with an agent recommended for the type of paint, and is then applied using this technique. Mist the surface with water, allowing the color to run and spread. Be careful to not allow the mixer to totally wash off the wall or to run down into a dry area and leave unnatural drips or runs. A good way to prevent this is to keep the area in front of the flow moist and the flow will follow it. This will also help to control the direction of the flow and help to define the length and shape of your drip aging. If you do not want this to appear as drip aging, but instead as an overall wash, then moisten the entire wall and then apply the aging mixture. Then allow the surface to dry and cure. By using the clear flat paint you will eliminate the need to repeat the clear coat step again.

If you follow these basics, you will be on your way to creating beautiful faux marble. Results will vary based on your personal skills, but if you get to know your materials and your subject and spend the time to practice, you will be able to achieve quality results.