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Blood!

Eyes Made Easy

The Keys to Haunting Room Design




Blood!
Ryan Fischer

Blood. We all need it to survive, Dracula drinks it, and Dr. Frankenstein transfuses it to create his monster. But what do you do when you need a lot of it for your Haunted House? You could raid a blood bank or tap a few friends’ veins, but that could lead to some legal problems. So the only other alternatives are to buy it or make it on your own. Buying your blood from the numerous makeup suppliers could get costly, and there are so many choices, determining which one will work for your particular need is up to trial and error. Let’s look at some bloody background before we discuss a few recipes. Some of these blood types and helpful tips will be easy and well-known formulas, while others might be a bit surprising.

In the old black and white films, chocolate syrup was used for fake blood. As Technicolor film came into being, so did fake red blood. It started out as a mixture of glycerin and pigment; it looked like red paint, tasted horrible and was unsafe to put in the mouth. In 1964, makeup artist Dick Smith suggested using Karo Syrup and food coloring as a more realistic and less toxic blood formula. The idea was not used until 1968, and was officially accepted when it was used in the film The Godfather. Karo is available clear and in an amber color; the clear form provides more avenues for coloring and is used in all of the recipes in this article.

Food colorings are stains, and will do just that to clothes and skin. However, Karo seems to screen the dye, making it easy to wash the blood away with just water. If there is some slight reddening to light-colored fabrics, a good alkaline soap like Ivory will help take it out. Take note though; as you thin the syrup, you lessen the stain screening action. If you need to thin the blood for pumping, Sorbitol, a corn derivative, can be substituted for Karo. Sorbitol is a lot thinner and also screens the staining effect.

For blood that you want to use in the mouth you can still use the Karo syrup, but for some it may be a bit too sweet. One variant is to use flour or white frosting mix as a base, but this will make the blood less transparent. Mix either flour or white frosting mix with some vodka and red food coloring. Do not worry too much about people wanting to drink all your blood; with the additions you make, the taste is not all that great.

The recipe detailed here is large, but you can adjust the quantities for the amount you need. I use 1 gallon of Karo syrup (8 pints), 8 oz. water, 6 oz. detergent, 8 oz. red food coloring, and 3 1/3 oz. of yellow food coloring. Karo blood can turn moldy and should be refrigerated, or you can add a preservative like Methyl Paraben, a common food preservative, to help keep down the mold. The whole process should be done in sanitary conditions, especially if it is going to be used in the mouth.

One other recipe for Karo blood is to mix 16 ounces of Karo syrup, 1 oz. red food coloring, 1 oz. dish detergent, 1 oz. water and one drop of blue food coloring. The blue food coloring can be omitted if you use a dish detergent that is already blue. This recipe will aid in the cleanup of the blood but it will still stain.

For that dried blood look, Karo-based blood is not a good choice, because when it dries it still has a shiny appearance. Not good for a dried blood look, but great for reviving the blood; all you have to do is spray or sprinkle water on the dried Karo blood and it will become runny again. There are many things that you can use to simulate dried blood. Watercolors, acrylic paints and makeup can all be used. I prefer this recipe: Dilute K-Y Lubricant with water until you get a syrupy consistency, add some flour or white frosting mix to make the mixture opaque, then add red and yellow to get a good blood color. Now for the step that makes it all look good: add a bit of green food coloring to get reddish brown. Real dried blood is quite brown, but for our sake it needs to be a bit red. Paint it where you need it and let it dry. This mixture has a great looks when it is dry.

Real blood is actually very bright and warm in its hue, but when it is spread thin on the skin it appears transparent and slightly orange. As it thickens and dries it becomes darker and more opaque. To achieve this in fake blood, add red dye until you get the color you want. Keep in mind that the more red dye you add the more the blood tends to bead up on skin and certain fabrics, which is not natural looking and ruins the illusion. You can solve this problem by adding a wetting agent. The most readily available of these is liquid detergent. Experiment with small batches of your blood formula, adding a minimal amount of clear detergent until the beading stops. Remember that adding the detergent will make the blood foam, so leave space in the bottle if you plan to shake your blood. While liquid detergent does get rid of the beading, it completely eliminates using the blood in the mouth.

One formula for quick blood is adding food coloring to Palmolive Dish Detergent. The green soap works best for fresh blood, while for drying or darker blood you should use Dawn Dish Detergent. These make a blood that is a bit runny and has a tendency to foam, but is great when you need those buckets-of-blood effects. Another inexpensive way to make blood is to add a little yellow or green food coloring to strawberry syrup or strawberry ice cream topping. Both make great mouth bloods with one small disadvantage: they taste so good that your actors may eat it all. A strange advantage to using the topping is that it is lumpy and makes chunky blood to cough up. This can be adapted to make green bile or yellow vomit-like material by adding the appropriate coloring. So experiment and remember, overall, it will make for interesting sundae socials.

Some people still remember the old Spaghetti Western days and have an affinity for that type of blood. You know; the bright red gooey kind of blood that splattered well over ponchos and buildings alike and always looked the same on both. Well fear not, for here is a recipe for Spaghetti Western Arterial blood! Take 2 teaspoons of Arrowroot (a white powder used in baking) and 16 ounces of water. Add the powder to the water while heating and stir until the mixture is gooey. Add a small amount of nontoxic red powdered paint and stir; the result will be a bright vivid red. Add a tiny amount of brown powdered paint and stir. Then you should see something that will take you back to those cowboy days.

This last recipe is not only cheap and good-looking but also is pretty tasty. The reason for all of this is in the coloring. Instead of food coloring I used a packet of unsweetened drink mix, which is less expensive and tastes good (I prefer Black Cherry Blood). Take one cup of water and 1 tablespoon of flour, mix over heat and bring to a boil. Let boil for 2 minutes and then simmer for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 5 minutes, then mix in the black cherry powdered drink mix (unsweetened). You should see a great color right away but it can be a little thick; if this is a problem you can either cut it with water or shorten the simmering time. As I said before, this is a great mouth blood because of the flavoring of the drink mix. This is another great recipe to experiment with for bile and other colored fluid you may want to ooze out of your actors’ mouths.

Now if you would rather just spend the money and not take time to make your own, many different companies sell blood. The Research Council of Makeup Artist (RCMA) Blood A is light, bright, water-soluble and stains slightly. Blood B is a plastic mix for longer lasting effects, but the color is light and settles badly so it must be used for short periods of time only. Joe Blasco Blood does not have a good consistency and is rather dark, but it has its advantages for creating older blood pools. Mehron blood is very dark, thick and stains slightly. Water can be added to Mehron’s blood to help both consistency and color. They also have a great Squirt Blood that is thin enough to be pumped. Again it is a bit dark but the consistency is very good. Stein blood is thin and very bright, and it has a tendency to bead up easily on the skin and any smooth surfaces. Zauders blood is too runny and is the blood you normally find in tubes with commercial vampire kits. It also stains quite easily. Cinema Secrets Blood Gel is thick and sticky with good color. Allowing the blood to dry some can increase the stickiness. I have been able to pull bloody fibers of this gel across an effect to make it appear like a fresh tear or add it to some cotton fiber for a fresh meat look. Cinema Secrets FX Blood has a good color and thick consistency; which helps in the longevity of a wound, cutting down on touch ups. This is affected by temperature though, and has created some strange effects as it runs. Reel Creations Reel Blood is probably the best commercial blood around. Color and consistency are excellent and it does not stain much at all. It is very easy to work with and can be used in numerous situations with little work. Colors are quite natural and are used widely in the industry. Bloody Mary has a great blood for a different reason. The blood is thin enough to be pumped or sprayed and has a good color. The best part is that this blood dries quickly but does not loose any color intensity. It is great for splattering on clothes that will always be covered in blood.

Kryolan has an enormous amount of blood products, most of which are inclined to be in the bluer reds. Special Blood 402 tends to be a bit too opaque, while Artificial Blood 400 is transparent and light in color. Film Blood A 407 is supposed to coagulate, but it seems too dark in the early stages. With a few adjustments Kryolan magic two-part blood is great for knifings in front of an audience or whippings. I recently used this in a stage effect where someone’s throat was slit; many heads turned away as the blood started to flow. The best Kryolan blood product is Eye blood 4090, which unfortunately is the hardest item to get in the U.S. I used a couple of drops of this in my eye and the color was good and my whole eyeball was blood red for a moment or two. It then settled to the bottom lid to form a narrow band and also in the pocket near the nose. That lasted a long time and made my eye look extremely bloodshot. Note: If you point your head toward the ground, when you stand up again your entire eye will be red again for a few moments. It’s an interesting effect if an actor has to transform from normal to possessed. It feels as though your eye is full but it is not uncomfortable. It will take a couple of washings with an eyecup to remove it completely. Kryolan also makes a black version that is also very eerie. Great care must be taken to not contaminate the dropper; it could lead to some serious eye infections. Also take care when using with contacts as it may stain them.

Now before you splatter blood all over everything, how are you going to clean it up? As I said before the red will stain and there are a few things you can do to lessen this problem. One of the best things you can do is to rub Vaseline Intensive Care lotion into the skin beforehand. This seems to prevent most staining, including blood and red makeup. If you still get a red stain on the skin, put Colgate Shaving Cream on the stain and let it set for a while, then remove with a warm wash cloth. Another good remover is baby shampoo on a warm washcloth. Cleanup of stains on fabric is still difficult with no easy answer. Scotch Guard is the best preventative.

This is by no means a comprehensive listing; there are new products and recipes being formulated daily. I would love to hear about your favorite formulas. Have fun and let it bleed!

Disclaimer: these recipes and tips are given in good faith. If you try any of these tips or recipes it is at your own risk. The author takes no responsibilities and will assume no liability.

Ryan Fischer has been a professional makeup artist for over 15 years. He also gives seminars, lectures and classes in makeup. He can be reached via email at Theryan66@msn.com and welcomes questions and input.

Tri-Ess Sciences (213) 245-3685
1020 W Chestnut St.
Burbank, CA 91506
(818) 848-7838
www.tri-esssciences.com

Bloody Mary(TM)
7514 Girard Ave. PMB 538
La Jolla, CA 92037
954-828-9755
www.dearbloodymary.com

Research Council of Makeup Artists
PO box 850
Somis, Ca 93066
805-386 - 4744

Mehron
100 Red Schoolhouse Road
Chestnut Ridge, NY 10977
845-426-1700
www.mehron.com

Steins/Zauders
10 Henry Street
Freeport, NY 11520

Cinema Secrets
4400 Riverside Dr
Burbank, CA 95105
818-846-0579
www.cinemasecrets.com

Reel Creations
7831 Alabama Ave., Suite 21
Canoga Park, CA 91304
Voice: (818)3-GO-REEL or (818) 346-7335
www.reelcreations.com

Kryolan
132 Ninth Street
San Francisco, CA 94103
800 Kryolan
www.kryolan.com




Eyes Made Easy
Jerry Chavez

Many years ago, I published a method for “soft sculpting” prop eyes in my book The Haunted House Halloween Handbook (McFarland & Company; ISBN 0786403756). My original method used painted wood balls and plastic doll eyes as the colored iris. Then in 1997 I got my first photo-quality color printer, and changed my original design to use irises punched out of color prints instead of the plastic doll eyes. This new method makes it even easier to produce surprisingly realistic prop eyes.

In the special effects industry, prop making and special effects often require mold making. For prop eyeballs, a silicone mold is normally constructed to cast plastic orbs. This involves a certain amount of skill, money, time and effort, so I have researched creative ways to avoid mold making in many of my projects to reduce expense and increase efficiency. After a lot of field research and some luck, I discovered that many factory-molded thermal plastic 1 TSP measuring spoons work as a near perfect mold for a 1/2-inch sphere.

Start by obtaining the following materials and tools:
Materials:
· 2 plastic 1 TSP measuring spoons (Must be polypropylene, polyethylene or nylon).
· 1" white plastic round dome furniture leg insert. Fig. 2 shows the Shepherd brand (product number 3015) made for patio furniture legs. I have found these locally at ACE Hardware; you can also get them on the Internet at
http://ace-hardware.com.
· Iris color print. The actual size of the border around the iris should measure 1 inch square once it is printed. (Fig. 3)
· Clear liquid plastic casting resin and catalyst (Fig. 4)
· Red sewing thread
· Clear topcoat nail polish
· Petroleum jelly
· 1 ounce plastic cups
· Stirring sticks

Tools:
· 1/2 inch leather or automotive gasket punch (Fig. 5)
· Plastic cutting board
· Circle template with a 1/2-inch diameter circle
· Plastic or rubber gloves
· Hammer
· Isopropyl Alcohol
· Lint-free cloth
· Razor blade
· Wire cutters or scissors
· Medium and fine grade sand paper
· Black fine tip magic marker

Purchase a polypropylene, polyethylene or nylon measuring spoon, since the epoxies used will attack the plastic of an acrylic spoon. Hopefully the manufacturer will list the type of plastic the spoon is made of on the packaging; you can also look for the recycle codes on the packaging or on the spoon itself. The codes you want to find are:
Code 2 =High density polyethylene
Code 4 =Low density polyethylene
Code 5 =Polypropylene

At this time there is no specific recycle code for Nylon or Acrylic. The recycle codes for plastics are currently being reviewed, and new codes (probably inside a totally different symbol) will soon be introduced. For now they are:
1 = PET
2 = High density polyethylene
3 = Vinyl
4 = Low density polyethylene
5 = Polypropylene
6 = Polystyrene
7 = Others, including multi-layer

Polyethylene, polypropylene, and nylon all have slightly different properties when it comes to appearance and texture. A quick test is to dig your thumbnail into the back of the spoon and then drop it into a bowl of water. Basically the spoon is OK if it floats, or if it sinks but you can scratch it. Avoid metal spoons; they may look round, but often they have a flat base and/or a flared opening. Also, make sure that there is no “lip” or rim as shown in Fig. 6. If you purchase a spoon with an internal lip, it will lock on the undercut and trap the eyeball inside the spoon.

The liquid plastic is a form of casting resin. Its curing process is caused when heat is generated by the chemical reaction that takes place when a catalyst is added to the casting resin. As a result, the casting resin is sensitive to environmental conditions like humidity, heat and cold. If the room you’re working in is below 65 degrees F, it will slow down the curing; if the room is over 75 degrees F, it will accelerate the curing and can cause yellowing and/or cracking, and high humidity can cause cloudiness in the resin.

Use a commercial mold release agent if you can, otherwise use petroleum jelly applied with a lint-free cloth or sponge. Be sure to cover every surface inside the spoon and the spoon rim.

Do not use wax-type mold releases when attempting to achieve a clear casting, as products that contain wax can mix into the casting resin and cloud it. Likewise, do not use paper cups (the kind with wax inside) to mix the casting resin.

Once you have the right materials and tools, it’s time to start making eyes! The following steps are for creating 2 eyeball props.

Step 1
Take out two of the patio furniture leg inserts and clean the domes with alcohol and a lint-free cloth. Using a circle template, mark a 1/2-inch circle on the top of the plastic dome. (Fig. 7)
Step 2
Using the circle that you marked as a guide, sand the top of the domes flat. When you are done you will have a 1/2-inch diameter flat “plateau.” (Fig. 8) Clean up the edges with the fine sand paper and razor, making sure there are no burs from the plastic. Clean the surface with alcohol and a lint-free cloth.
Step 3
Print the iris images on photo-quality paper using a color printer at the best setting available on your computer. Using a 1/2-inch diameter punch, cut out the irises. Be sure to place the paper on a clean plastic cutting board to get a nice bur-free cut. (Fig. 9)
Step 4
Spread a very thin layer of topcoat nail polish on the 1/2-inch flat area of the plastic dome inserts (don’t get any on the rest of the eyeball). Carefully place the paper irises on the flat spots. Allow them to set.
Step 5
Apply a light coat of petroleum jelly to the inside and outer edge of the spoons with a lint-free cloth or sponge. Be sure that there is no lint or other debris after you apply the mold release to the inside of the plastic measuring spoons. (Fig. 10)
Step 6
Pour 1/8 of an ounce of clear liquid plastic casting resin into a clean container. (Fig. 11) If you are using “Casting Craft” brand, you will need 1 drop of catalyst; otherwise follow the directions on your chosen brand. 1/8 of an ounce will be more then enough for two eyes. Slowly mix the catalyst into the plastic resin for 30 seconds. Try to do this without whipping bubbles into the liquid. Pour the liquid resin into another clean container and mix it slowly for another 30 seconds. (Fig. 12) Again, avoid creating bubbles in the mixture. Do not skip this step! It is very important to do this to avoid layers of liquid plastic that have not mixed well with the catalyst in the first container.
Step 7
Put 3 drops of the mixed liquid plastic into the bottom of each measuring spoon. (Fig. 13) Let the liquid plastic cure for 2 minutes. As it sets, most of the bubbles will rise to the surface and dissipate, creating a clearer “lens” for the eyes.
Step 8
Repeat step 6 with a fresh set of cups and stirring sticks to make a new batch of liquid plastic. Put 7 drops of the liquid plastic into bottom of the measuring spoons. Do this slowly, and be careful to avoid mixing a lot of bubbles into the liquid. Let the new pours set for 2 minutes.
Step 9
Carefully push the plastic round dome inserts into the measuring spoons. (Fig. 14) A small amount of the liquid plastic should squeeze out around the spoon edges; do not force the dome into the spoon too far or it will spring back up and suck air into the liquid plastic. Do not pull the inserts away from the spoons at all or you will suck large bubbles into the liquid! Let them cure for 24 hours.
Step 10
After allowing them to set for 24 hours, run very hot water over the back of the spoons to heat up the release agent. (Fig. 15) Remove the spoon from under the hot running water and gently pull the eyeball out of the measuring spoon. You should not need to pull any harder than you would to pull up the peg of a car door lock. If the eye will not come out the first time, put it under the hot water again for a few seconds and try again. If you keep pulling, you risk separating the dome from the liquid plastic shell.
Step 11
The clear plastic should be hard and not “tacky” to the touch. It may be necessary to let the eyes stand in the open air for an hour. If you touch the cured plastic immediately, it may pick up your fingerprints and become cloudy.
Step 12
Clean the surface with a lint-free cloth and alcohol to wipe away any water stains, mold release or dust. Allow the alcohol to dry, then a apply a coat of clear topcoat nail polish to even out any imperfections in the casting. (Fig. 16)
Step 13
Fray the end of a red thread with a razor, wire cutters or scissors to produce a small tree of blood vessels. Layer them onto the eyeball with more clear top coat nail polish. (Fig. 17) Allow each layer to set before applying the next or you could create bubbles in the nail polish.
Step 14
Apply several coats of clear nail polish to even out any imperfections and give a depth and gloss to the casting. Allow each layer to completely dry before you apply the next.

Jerry Chavez is owner of Spooky F/X and author of The Haunted House Halloween Handbook. You can contact him at Spookyfx@aol.com or check out his web site at www.spookyfx.com






The Keys to Haunting Room Design
Allen Hopps

What makes a great Haunted House? It could be the actors, with their high energy level and dedication to getting screams; perhaps it’s the backstage staff, ensuring everything runs smoothly and seamlessly; or maybe it’s the animatronics, providing show quality and a “wow” factor. These are certainly important in determining a Haunt’s success, but they are all dependent upon one thing: your Haunt design. A great design can provide a foundation that will make the other pieces, e.g. actors, props, etc., come together to create a successful Haunting environment. While designing a Haunted Attraction can be overwhelming, remembering a few of these basic design elements can help simplify the process.

Element 1: Fit
You have to ask, “What kind of Haunt am I trying to create?” If it is themed after an insane asylum, you don’t want to put in a gothic vampire crypt; it doesn’t fit with the theme or the flow of the Haunt. You should be able to rationalize the placement and presence of each room in your attraction; one room should logically lead into the next.

By using a storyline or “back story” for the attraction, you will be amazed at what you can make fit together. It doesn’t need to be a seamless plot; after all, this is horror fantasy. Take the previous example, an asylum, a hundred years ago during the dawn of the modern age of medicine. This institution was built to house the criminally insane, but instead of aggressively battling their ailments with lobotomies and shock therapy, the staff immersed the patients in their psychoses in hopes that they would emerge as sane, healthy individuals. Elaborate sets were built for each patient, and orderlies would change costumes to deal with different patients, e.g. a man stricken with lycanthropy was given a cow to slaughter with his bare hands every full moon; a completely insane Bavarian nobleman who thought he was a vampire was imprisoned in a gothic crypt, and the one who thought all this up…well, he was so insane he thought he was a doctor.

With that example, the vampire crypt does fit in with the asylum theme. Using a good back story as a guide, you can make just about any situation fit any theme!

Element 2: Look
The look of the room is the audience’s first impression; whatever that room is supposed to be, it has to look right. If it is supposed to be an interrogation room, then it better have a table and chairs, a bright light that shoots down on the chair, and what looks like a one-way mirror on one wall. While that may not be what interrogation rooms actually look like, it is the way they are expected to look by the audience. You have to consider that the bulk of your audience has never seen an interrogation room (hopefully), so they expect what they have seen in television and movies. It is important to play into these preconceptions of what rooms and items are supposed to look like; they have to look real to lull your patrons into another world.

Color is one of the key factors that will tell your guests what kind of room they’re in; a lab should be mostly white, a dungeon very dark with gray stone, and a kitchen should have dingy yellow walls. When designing a room’s look, remember that all detail is achieved through layers. For example, a kitchen wall could be painted pastel yellow, and if that wall isn’t where the action is, i.e. the monster jumps out from the other side of the room, it could be complete. But if you painted the wall yellow, then mixed green paint with water and splattered it all over the wall, added a chair rail and a painting of fruit that you’ve dusted with black spray paint to make it look moldy, attached a mocked-up set of kitchen cabinets to the wall, and a flickering lamp, it would be a much more convincing set. Lighting is another key factor in achieving the proper look. The fixtures should fit in the type of room you’re creating, and originate in the proper time period. Your beautiful crypt set lit with fluorescent lights from above will ruin the effect; use an electric candelabrum in a corner instead.

Element 3: Feel
The feel of a room is hard to define. It is the combination of everything that appeals to the senses and contributes to the atmosphere. The sounds, smells, and textures of a room all help to create its feel. Sound is key to the feel of a space, and should also be used in layers. The typical layers are background sound, like a soundtrack to a movie, noises from the things in the room, and the triggered sounds. If there is a body on a table and a pipe organ against the wall, don’t have the noise all come from the same speaker. Make the body moan and the pipe organ play from the pipe organ; it will greatly increase the reality of the scene as well as force your audience to look around when the sounds change, which can misdirect the audience and set them up for a scare.

Smell is also important to the feel of the room. A wide variety of aromas are on the market to help you create a more convincing environment, including scents that evoke earthy musks, familiar foods, and bodily functions. They add a lot to a Haunt, and involve a sense that is normally ignored in attractions.

About the only way to appeal to the audience’s sense of touch is with texture in your sets. Your actors can’t touch them, but the patrons will touch the things that you put into a room, so make those things count. If they have to walk through curtains, make the curtains out of rough burlap instead of soft cotton or satin. Jute mesh, a loosely woven burlap, is a great fabric for Haunt sets and has a great look and texture; just be sure to soak it in fire retardant before putting it up.

Element 4: Flow
There are two kinds of flow in a Haunt set; guest flow and actor flow. Guest flow is your primary concern, as there will be several thousand guests traveling through the set, most of them for the first time. This path needs to be well defined. The actor, however, will be there for quite some time and will be able to adapt and adjust to the room.

Keep the number of guests you’re going to have per night in mind when you design your rooms; if you need to do 600 people per hour, don’t put in a room that takes 30 seconds to reset after each group. The group’s destination should be obvious to them, both to increase throughput and to maintain patron control (you must have control of the group to be able to scare them). Use lights to help the group navigate; an eye-level electric candle at each new doorway will really keep their pace going. They get used to the light as a guide and start to head for it when they see it. If it’s dark, they will walk toward where there is more light. Instruct your actors to scare with the flow of traffic, not against it; they should speed the groups up, not slow them down. On less busy nights it’s fine to trap a few people and get them really good, but on busier nights stopping a group could cause a real traffic jam and make a bad show for all the groups that got backed up.

Actor flow is also important. The actor needs a hiding spot in order to scare the patrons, and a place to retreat to after he has scared them. He also needs to be able to see the group before he jumps out to make sure that the group is in the right spot, and a spot out of guest sight (backstage) to keep his water bottle, radio and any other personal effects he may need (like an asthma inhaler).

Element 5: Misdirection
Now it’s time to get to the fun stuff; the scare. A good actor can always make the room work; he knows just when to jump out and scare people, and he knows just how far to go. But how many really good actors do you have? You can help make the average ones good and the good ones great by using misdirection to distract the audience and give the actor a prime opportunity for a scare. Here are a few examples of misdirection, but the possibilities are endless!

Example 1: The actor is completely out of sight behind a drop portrait; the group has to walk between the actor’s wall and a large coffin. Naturally the group will think someone is coming out of the coffin, so when their attention is focused on it, the actor slams down his drop portrait and scares the group from behind. This scare can be made even better by having the actor trigger a sound effect from inside the coffin; it could electronically activated or as simple as pulling on a rope that makes the lid bang.

Example 2: The group walks through a child’s bedroom and there is a closet door ajar. It’s very dark inside, and they can plainly see that isn’t their exit, as there is a doorway in front of them that has no door, just an open frame with a faint light coming through it from the other side. On their way through the room as they pass by the closet door a motion sensor triggers a wall knocker in the closet, or pneumatic drawers slam on the child’s chest of drawers. Then on the opposite side of the path, the bed slams up against the wall and a monster leaps out from a trap door in the mattress.

Example 3: The group is walking through a long L-shaped hallway with a curtain every two feet on either side At the 90° turn in the hallway, facing the patrons, there is another curtain with a dim spotlight directed on it. The group can see the toes of a pair of men’s boots sticking out from under the curtain, as if someone is standing behind it. As they warily approach the booted curtain, an actor scares them from one of the side curtains in the first hallway.

Example 4: The room is a cemetery set. To the group’s left is a fenced-off area where there are a few tombstones and a body standing in a coffin (it’s a pop-out corpse); to the right is an ivy-covered cemetery fence. The group is headed for the way out when the pop-out corpse goes off, and they jump back against the ivied fence. That’s when the zombie actor (who triggered the corpse) reaches through the gate and gives a good zombie hiss. That will send them running for the exit.

Many basic elements go together to create a successful Haunting environment. Actors, backstage staff, and animatronics are all important parts to consider; however, the design of the attraction is the foundation that will make the other pieces come together. If every room in your Haunt is designed with fit, look, feel, flow, and misdirection in mind, these basic design elements will help you to create awesome Haunted House sets and scares.

Allen Hopps has been continuously involved in Haunted Houses since 1986, including 10 years working at year-round Haunts including Terror on Church St., Universal’s Halloween Horror Nights Orlando, Spooky World, and Skull Kingdom. Allen is also partial owner of Creature Crates; 2004 marks their second season of bringing innovative props and costumes to the Haunted Attraction industry. You can contact Allen at Stiltbeast@aol.com.

 

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