The Art of Spraying Makeup

By: Natalie De Surrey

In the last few years, a new trend in make-up has been embraced by the Haunted Attraction Industry, for its ease and speed of application. Spray or airbrush make-up is being relied upon more and more by large productions to produce special make-up effects and to decrease the "in chair" time of their employees. The advantages to using this technique, either as a substitute or in addition to sponged makeup, are numerous.

When applied correctly, airbrushed makeup has a "seamless" look. It does not bleed, drip or get muddy the way other pigments do when blended. The overall effect is very natural. Grease makeup tends to cover the skin's texture and adds shine, producing a thick, made-up appearance. Imagine turning someone's skin completely green or silver yet still being able to see skin texture such as pores, facial hair or the fine lines around the eyes. Spray make-up also covers imperfections quickly and completely. A makeup artist can even cover a mistake with a neutral color and re-apply the correct finish without having to remove any makeup to start over. Another advantage to sprayed makeup is how quickly one can cover a large area with an even finish. I have sprayed actors' faces, arms, legs and even entire bodies in less than a few minutes. Because the makeup is sprayed on with air, drying time is decreased substantially as well.

Once you decide that spray make-up is for you, here are some tips and tools you will need before you get started.

I am not sure if anyone is manufacturing 'airbrush equipment' specifically for makeup so if you are shopping for equipment start by looking in art supply stores. You will need a compressor, connecting hose(s), airbrush(s), and makeup. The size and strength of the compressor will depend on the amount of use it will get and the number of airbrush "stations" you plan on hooking up to it. I have used a Badger compressor for jobs where only one or two people were getting makeup applied at the same time. I have also used an industrial strength compressor (used for pneumatic tools, etc.) for a job at Hades Haunted House, where 80-90 people needed to get sprayed in less than an hour. This set-up had 5 airbrush stations attached to one compressor via T-connectors and hoses. Make sure the compressor has a regulator valve to control pressure, and the pressure should be no higher than 20-40 psi. If the subject starts to feel a stinging sensation, lower the pressure.

Airbrushes are very sensitive instruments, cleaning and care are extremely important for consistent performance and long life of the brush. Soak the tips each night for use the next day, following the manufacturer's instructions to the letter. I have experimented with a few different brands of airbrush over the years, before sticking with the Aztec brand. These airbrushes come with a few different size tips for different line widths. They are made of plastic, are extremely lightweight, and can take a beating (and they did!) without effecting performance. Pasche airbrushes have a dual action capability, which enables the artist to control the amount of pigment flow while spraying. The down side is that Pasche brushes require dismantling before they can be cleaned, which significantly increases the maintenance time.

Several of the major makeup manufacturers now make liquid makeup that is specifically designed for use in an airbrush. This makes it very convenient for new users to begin experimenting right away. It is also possible to make your own makeup using a water-soluble cake makeup such as Krylon. You will need to blend the cake makeup in a blender with some form of astringent or rubbing alcohol that is made for human skin. We have had very good results with both witch hazel and rubbing alcohol, but stayed with rubbing alcohol because some actors were annoyed by the smell of the former. It will take some experimenting with the ratio of liquid to makeup, because different brands and colors types have a different consistency. For example, Krylon's Ultra-Violet light colors tend to be more transparent and therefore take less liquid while the iridescent colors made by Interferenz contain more particles and require more liquid, and need to be shaken well before each use.

As a starting point, I recommend combining a cake with 3-5 parts liquid, blending on high in a blender until the cake is thoroughly liquefied. Then strain the mixture through a nylon stocking to filter out any undissolved particles. Try spraying a sample through a brush for a few seconds, if the brush begins to clog, add more liquid and blend again. Repeat until you are able to spray a steady stream of pigment through your brush. This process although time consuming will save you money if you plan to use large amounts of makeup. We found it was cheaper to make our own than to buy a commercially made brand, and you have the advantage of creating custom colors. For storage, try condiment squeeze bottles or the leftover alcohol containers. The makeup must be kept sealed in airtight containers, once it dries out it is unusable. Containers that are sealed tightly should preserve makeup for up to 1 year.

When spraying the makeup, cover the area lightly yet thoroughly. Apply the make-up in layers, letting each application dry completely in between sprayings for a more opaque fill. This will prevent the makeup from getting too wet and running. If the makeup is too wet, or you to keep spraying on one spot, it can create "holes." Sometimes holes can be a cool effect but that may not be what you want. Apply the make-up in strokes, holding the airbrush 3-5 inches from the surface and overlapping the leading edge just slightly. Similar to spray painting a wall, you want to keep the leading edge wet to produce a seamless effect, and prevent streaks. Because of the automatic feathering on the edges, airbrushes are great for hollowing out eyes and cheekbones to make the victim look gaunt. To add some more dimension, hollow out the desired areas with a dark color, then add highlights in a lighter color on the apples of the cheeks, the browbones and the bridge of the nose. Wrinkles can then be painted in with a very fine brush. An airbrush also works terrific with Stencils. Cloth patterns such as lace or other fabrics with holes can produce very weird, other-worldly special effects that are awesome for creating monsters, aliens and corpses. If your actor is going to sweat a lot, you might want to get some makeup fixer, a kind of "hairspray for the skin". It comes in a pump spray bottle and you just "mist" it over the final makeup layer. The product contains alcohol so be careful around the eyes, but will help the makeup stay on longer.

Remember to keep the air pressure at between 20-40 psi and constantly ask the subject if they are comfortable. Always be extra careful when spraying around the eyes, especially if the actor is wearing contact lenses. This is another good reason to spray lightly and in layers, as it will prevent alcohol-based makeup from running into the eyes. Have fresh, cool water and tissues on hand in case of an accident. Use cotton balls to plug nostrils and ears and remind your actor to hold their breath while you are spraying. Don't forget to let them breathe every few minutes. If your actors have sensitive or dry skin, remind them to moisturize before the make-up call. The water-based makeup comes off with soap and water.

Using a combination of airbrush and traditional techniques, you will be able to come up with some very unique and professional results in a very short time. You have a few months of summer before the Halloween season begins, so start practicing now. If you have trouble getting someone to sit for you, remind him or her that an airbrush body makeup job is a great way to cool down in the dog days of summer.

Natalie has worked as an airbrush makeup artist at Hades Haunted
House for six years, where she helped develop their unique approach to
this technology. She is currently Art Director and lead graphic artist at Haunted America.com, and can be reached via email at: natalie@hauntedamerica.com